90% of Surfing
I was in Cornwall a couple of weeks ago. One morning, sitting on a bench high up a cliff overlooking Fistral Beach in Newquay, I watched a group of surfers at 7:30am and saw something I’d never noticed before. Whenever I’ve pictured surfing, it’s the Instagram reel version: someone carving a perfect wave like an absolute champion. But that morning, watching for real, I saw that surfing is mostly waiting. Floating. Bobbing up and down on the board. Reading the water. Ninety percent of the…